If you missed it yesterday, read the first installment of my Cuba story here.
After a late night / early morning transfer to Havana we then moved onto Cayo Largo, riding a Mi-8 helicopter to the island, the familiar thump-thump of the helo reminding me of days spent working in Russia several years ago. An odd little homecoming… you know when you become so exhausted really nothing can rattle you and life’s pretty good? Slipping comfortably into that mode, we dumped luggage and headed off in a skiff with head guide William to check out the fishery.
Before lunchtime, Yellow Dog Itinerary Specialist Kristen and I both had tarpon under our belts. I think that’s really all that needs to be said about this fishery. By the end of the day we had more fish to hand and were sitting happily in the boat, bleary-tired, sipping Cristal beer.
William was fantastic. Fun, extremely fishy, patient, and a true pro, he guided us into fish despite hard wind, heavy rain, and rough conditions. He knew where to find the big lizards that are native to the mangroves, where to find the snook nestled along the beach, and where we could catch little reef fish along a nude beach (both hilarious and entertaining). The fishery itself was diverse, and I could easily see spending more than a week here exploring the area. From permit following rays, bonefish cruising the flats, tarpon meandering around the mangroves, snook, barracuda, reef fish, snapper, jack… the list goes on and on. One rainy morning we stumbled across a three-and-a-half meter saltwater crocodile with a dead pelican in its mouth, and were able to get reasonably close in the skiff before he spooked and dropped from a pile of turtle grass into the water, leisurely swimming away while giving us the evil eye.
Lodging was comfortable, with two-bed little villas offering hot showers and amenities. Avalon had a lovely HQ set up near the marina, where Fishing Program Manager Mauro would make us legit espresso every morning. The villa reception, manned by a lovely lady named Barbara, actually offered surprisingly fast wifi (faster than I have in a New Jersey hotel as I write this!) and a mean cafe con leche. The marina was a short distance from the lodgings, making for easy mornings and evenings.
On the way out of the country, we had a few hours to wander around Havana, and even in that short amount of time it was fascinating to shoot a taste of the city. Color, history, architecture, people… it was all lovely. A rainy afternoon helped keep the streets reasonably clear, and wandering the streets of the city it was easy to imagine its vibrancy in the boom times of the 1920s or 1950s.
Overall, it was a hell of a trip, and I look forward to going back. Cuba is a special place that’s going to change quickly as it opens up more to tourism. Had some fascinating late-night talks with locals about politics, life, and their system; they’re excited to see more Americans come.
So here’s to fishing and the places it takes us.
