Having recently emigrated from the Deep South where when one utters the words “barbecue or smoker” it means some form of pulled pork (quite tasty of course), I have to admit it’s been a revelation to be back in Texas where “barbecue and smoker” mean brisket and Mr. Pig transforms into a host of delicious and varied smoked and grilled fare.
Poking around a farmers market this past week an enticing aroma – with a hint of pork and a wave of chile goodness – led my nose and I to a booth selling chilorio – Mexican Pulled Pork.
She was selling it in fresh corn tortillas, pilled high and topped with some crumbled cotija, diced onion and cilantro and squirt of green salsa.
The chilorio was a revelation, the sweetness of pork heightened from the orange juice, swimming in a thick, made from the roasted peppers up chile sauce with just enough vinegar bite to make things interesting.
While this makes a killer summer and fall taco, and would be amazing as a river side lunch, I can see it served as an enchilada filling, in breakfast tacos, over rice or just in a big bowl covered in all the trimmings.
Pulled pork will never be the same again.
4 lb. boneless pork butt, cut into 1-inch pieces
1 tbsp. ground cumin, divided
1.5 tsp. kosher salt
2 cups orange juice, divided
3 dried guajillo chiles, stemmed and seeded
3 dried ancho chiles, stemmed and seeded
9 cloves garlic
2/3 cup vinegar
2 tsp. Mexican oregano
1/2 tsp. allspice
Pinch of ground cloves
2/3 cup cilantro, leaves and tender stems, choppedOn the table: More chopped cilantro, diced or pickled onions (go with the pickled), a salsa or two, tortillas (corn wins the game), cheese (cotija if you can find it), pickled jalapenos, etc.
Braise the pork. Place the cut pork into a dutch oven, sprinkle with half the cumin and the salt, and pour 1 and 1/2 cups of orange juice over the meat. Add water to bring the level just to but not over the top of the meat.
Bring to a boil, then simmer uncovered until the meat is fork-tender and the liquid is mostly evaporated; took about an hour and 45 minutes for us.
Toast and soak the chiles. While the pork is simmering, toast the chiles in a dry, hot skillet until they become fragrant and puff a bit. Add water to cover, bring to a simmer and then turn off the heat. Let ‘em soak until they’re soft and mushy.
Make the sauce. Once soft, remove the chiles to the blender and add the remaining cumin, garlic, vinegar, Mexican oregano, allspice, cloves, cilantro and the rest of the orange juice (1/2 cup). Blend until smooth, adding a bit of the reserved chile water if too thick. Taste for salt, it’ll probably need some.
Finish it off. When the pork is done, remove it from the dutch oven to cool. Now pour the sauce into the cooking pot and heat over low heat while the pork cools; stir now and again to loosen up the tasty crusties on the bottom of the pot.
Shred the pork when it’s cool enough to handle, dump it back into the pot and stir to coat well. Simmer for a few minutes to allow the flavors to blend and get your accompaniments ready.
Serve it in a big bowl on the table alongside a plate of fresh tortillas, chopped cilantro, diced and / or pickled onions, grated cheese (cotija if possible), pickled jalapenos and two of your favorite salsas.
Enjoy.
