Chi Wulff’s Friday Feast 31 July: The Essential Fish Taco

by Mark McGlothlin on July 31, 2015

in Friday Feast

CWFFHdr31Jul_700PerfFT

We’ve been fiddling with the mighty fish taco all spring and summer, sharing a fair amount of our trials and errors with our Chi Wulff friends on Instagram, and for the most part enjoying some kick ass food along the way.

Fish tacos, to no one’s surprise, remind us a bit of gumbo – everybody tends to think their recipe or their favorite eatery’s recipe or their MaMa’s recipe is the very best and the only way fish tacos are meant to be enjoyed, and anyone who dares disagrees should be banished to deepest, darkest corner of fast food hell.

We call bullshit on such single-minded thinking.

Several weeks ago I had the chance to ask an assembled group of food experts (two chefs, three semi-pro cooks and a number of other foodies) what would, in their minds, compose the perfect fish taco. The ensuing discussion quickly rose to a heated pitch; opinions were exchanged, tempers got a bit edgy and they/we ended up debating essentially everything.

Here’s our distillation of what comprises the Essential Fish Taco, with links back to the building block recipes we’ve been posting over the past several months.

The Fish

Classically you’re talking firm, flaky white fish: mahi-mahi, grouper, halibut, hake, cod, black sea bass; we’re biased a bit toward the Gulf right now and favor red snapper above all (classic, sustainable, firm, damned tasty), though redfish and flounder play well too. Hell, a neighbor even made a pretty danged tasty version last weekend with farmed tilapia, proving you don’t have to break the bank here.

The Fish Prep

We’ll admit that fried fish probably starred in the original fish taco recipes; club soda makes a lighter, more bubbly batter than beer and rice flour will give you a lighter coating.

In the interest of ease of prep and flavor, we’re leaning to blackened fish or grilled with a nice spice mix over fried, though sometimes you just have to fry up a batch in the dutch oven on the deck – it’s summer, right?

Tortillas

It’s corn tortillas all the way, with home cooked lightyears ahead of store bought.

Pro Tip #1: Stack two corn tortillas slightly offset for a sturdier bite and a firmer grip on the goodies inside. Pro Tip #2: Very slightly char your corn tortillas to add a deep, nutty-corn flavor to the mix.

Slaw

Though some are tempted to dress their fish taco with plain shredded cabbage, that’s a swing and a miss when it comes to adding layers of flavor. And don’t even think about going naked (sans slaw).

Your fish tacos are calling out for a spicy, vinegar based slaw like this Southwestern Fish Taco Slaw or this slightly sweeter, creamy vinegar slaw here.

Salsa, Sauce AND Crema

Now here’s where you can really dial in the flavor of your fish tacos to make them perfect for you and yours. She Who Must Be Obeyed and I prefer the Central American, tropical fruit salsas (with the heat of habaneros) like this Grilled Pineapple Habanero Salsa or Maribel’s Mango Salsa. You make the call, even if it’s just a big splash of a mild hot sauce like Crystal.

One additional flavor key to round out that perfect fish taco is drizzle of crema – tart and almost citrusy yet a different note than a vinegar based slaw (though crema does make a killer fish taco slaw dressing…).

The Other Goodies

A chef friend in Austin insists it’s not a real fish taco without cilantro sprigs, four or five pickled jalapeno rings and a sprinkle of pickled red onions. Others call for avocado wedges, grilled peppers, chopped sweet onion, guacamole, grated cajeta cheese, etc.

Summer is prime time fish taco season. Fish tacos are perfect party and entertainment fare – make everything but the fish ahead and lay out the spread to let your guests build their own masterpiece. It’s time to git ‘er done.

Enjoy.